Carnival in Uruguay is considered the longest in the world: it starts at the end of January and finishes in the beginning of March. Even though its length has made it famous, the diversity of groups that comprise the parades and quality of the performances make it stand apart from similar festivals. Groups can belong to many categories, roughly: murga, a group of singers; comparsa, drummers with dancers; humoristas, humorists; parodistas, parodists and revista, revue. All categories include songs and theatrics with different emphasis.
Carnival Parades
There are many parades along the carnival route, but the most important ones are the Carnival Opening Parade and the Calls Parade. The parades are shown on national television while city mayors, ministers and the President are usually present in the state box. Along the parades' streets, chairs and boxes are available for rent as well as balconies in the surrounding houses.
The Carnival Opening Parade takes place at 18 de Julio Avenue, and opens the carnival season, starting the reign of God Momus. Additionally, it serves as presentation for the groups that will compete in the Carnival Competition held in the Teatro de Verano Ramón Collazo; an open theatre by the coast of Montevideo. Groups from all categories present a colourful spectacle in anticipation of their performances at the theatres.
The Calls Parade is comprised only of comparsas that parade for two nights along the Sur and Palermo neighbourhoods, mainly through Isla de Flores street. Comparsas prepare for months to compete in the following categories: the quality of their drumming, dresses and choreography. It’s considered the most important celebration of the African community in Uruguay, yet it everyone, including tourists.
Carnival Music
Two important musical styles distinguish themselves: murga and candombe. Murgas are a Spanish tradition consisting of a group of singers accompanied only by percussion. They sing songs that satirize the events and characters of the previous year, following a central theme.
Presentations follow a plot and are divided in three parts: presentación (presentation song), cuplé (a musical play) and retirada (retreat song). Murgas use of instruments is limited to one bass drum, one snare drum and one pair of clash cymbals. They are very popular and after the carnival they visit theatres around the whole world (“Carnival is coming”, Uruguay Now, February 4 2011).
Comparsas move at the pulse of candombe, an African Bantu rhythm that arrived with the slaves in the colonial era. Beside the drummers and dancers, comparsas include vedettes: dancers exquisitely dressed, often with feathers, distinguished by their ability to dance. Additionally, flag bearers, emblems and several characters of African origin are present (“El carnaval más largo del mundo”, Gustavo Laborde, OEI, February 1 2011).
Candome is played with the chico, piano and repique drums, with one hand and a stick. It definitely is one of the most important musical genres in Uruguay and has been added by UNESCO to the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity (“The Candombe and its socio-cultural space: a community practice”, UNESCO, February 4 2011).
Carnival Comedy
Murgas and comparsas may be the best known but aren’t the only performers; humorists, parodists and revues complete the picture. Humorists present a play divided into several sketches. The sketches are original and usually include popular characters; music and songs always take a backseat to the play.
Parodists follow a similar structure, but the performances are based on existing works. The works include novels, films and popular characters ranging from the Uruguayan President to Oscar Wilde and Édith Piaf.
Revues are centred on music and dance with special attention to vedettes. Revues also include sketches but to a lesser extent, songs take the forefront. Singers with great voices are an integral part of the act, providing the perfect complement to vedettes.
Carnival in the Theatre
After the Carnival Opening Parade, groups perform in popular theatres, called tablados, all over Montevideo. A typical night at a tablado comprises more than four groups performing, usually from different categories, with each performance taking up to an hour. Groups also perform in sports clubs and traditional theatres like Plaza Cinema Theatre. There are performances every night until the official competition finishes. Carnival is a great opportunity for families to experience Uruguayan culture and enjoy its beautiful coast, one of the reasons it’s known as the party of the people.
Pablo Rasilla - He is currently an undergraduate in Computer Engineering at the State University of Uruguay. Besides, he has studied English for more than ...
